The beginning of April saw me leaving Nairobi and speeding down the descent into Kenya's Great Rift Valley, a 3,000ft drop into a lush basin many kilometers across that dominates western Kenya's geography. The climb out was long but never very steep and brought me to one of my favourite nights of the trip so far, camping out in the grounds of the decaying colonial 'Tea Hotel' in Kericho, overlooking the fields of Africas tea capital.
Two hard days cycling over rolling hills later I found myself back at my favourite spot from my last visit to Africa. Bujagali falls in Uganda is not a large waterfall but a series of violent rapids that make for some exhilarating rafting. Here I spent a week with my brother Jasper catching up and helping to refurbish local schools with Softpower Education, a fantastic project that mainly through tourists donating their time and money has transformed over 30 schools in the area. (www.softpowereducation.com).
After Jinja I headed to Kampala, entering Ugandas capital in the dark in the midst of a colossal thunderstorm which made things interesting. Here I met Moses from Malaria Consortium who took me to Mulago Hospital (Uganda's largest) to see clinical trials that MC were funding. The ward where the trails were being held was large but crammed with exhausted looking mothers and their children. Most had made long journeys to be there and the only reason they would be there is because their child was on the brink with very advanced malaria.
The idea of the trial is to give the children (all aged between 2 and 12) very large doses of intravenous fluids. The idea seems to be reducing death rates and yet as many as half of the children I saw will since have passed away. Whilst there though I did see a very happy looking little boy. Desire, 2 years old and from just east of Kampala had come in for his 28 day checkup. Less than a month ago little desire who now sat happily playing with his mothers keys had been in multi organ system failure and hours from death when he was quickly diagnosed and given over one and a half times the recommended dose of rehydrating saline solution as well as the usual treatment. Desire responded to treatment and bounced back quickly as many do not but as Charles, another MC employee was to tell me the next day the battle is to be won with insecticide treated mosquito nets to prevent infection in the first place.
I was taken into the heart of rural Mokono district (just west of Kampala) where some 150,000 nets have been distributed which is designed to cover 85% of the regions children under 5 and pregnant mothers (those most susceptible to infection). The area was so remote that I was told that many of the children had not seen a white man before, hence the riot my arrival sparked! The news was good, it seemed to me that the nets had been distributed to the right people and they had understood their purpose and how to use them effectively. This was fantastic to see as we have so far raised over 8500 pounds which will provide over 1,700 nets to the Africans that need them most.
After Kampala I headed for Rwanda via the picturesque lake Bunyoni in western Uganda. This crater lake scattered with tiny islands, one of which unwed pregnant women used to be left to die on has to be one of the more stunning places I've ever been. The road through northern Rwanda makes for some of the most incredible cycling I've ever done, it reminded me strongly of the Italian riviera and I had an absolute blast. The next day however I nearly lost everything.
I was out and about in the capital Kigali on saturday morning buying some supplies and getting some routine bike maintenance done. I was descending a hill on my way back to the centre when a taxi pulled in front of me and pulled to the side blocking my path, one of the countless acts of bad driving I have experienced in the last few months. This time however was different. I never found out why but the driver rammed the brakes on so hard that I didn't even have time to apply mine. The car stopped instantly and I hit it at around 30 miles per hour. As a witness described my front wheel climbed the back of the saloon car and I was thrown with full force towards the back window. I instinctively put my hand out to break my fall, my hand went remarkably unscathed through the window, this did however leave me to decelerate the rest of my speed using my face.
I stood up immediately and found that large quantities of blood was pouring and in fact spraying from my face. I began a mental checklist of my body parts and found them all to be where I expected. I was approached by a kind expat called Lucy who gasped at the sight of me and told me to get in her car. I was adamant that we get the bike but her driver Leo was having none of it at first sight of me he was racing to get me to the emergency room, I hadn't realised at the time that the lower half of my face was hanging off.
We arrived at King Faisal Hospital less than 15 minutes after the crash and I was ushered into an examination room where I found a mirror. It was difficult to describe better than to say that I did not recognise the mess that was my face and my blood was everywhere. Within half an hour I was taken into surgery, it took over an hour and a half under general anaesthetic to remove a large chunk of glass that was wedged between my top teeth and skull and to apply 37 stitches to my face. 22 on my face and lips and 15 more in my mouth.
I was not exactly in fine shape but was very lucky not to break a bone or even loose any teeth. I have realised that the end result could've been so much worse. I was also amazingly luck to have Lucy there at the time. She had her driver take me to the hospital, she waited with me before surgery, she took care of registration and lent me the money to pay my bill and she was there with all my belongings when I woke up. I also would not be in the shape I currently am without the help of Richard and Alma Johnson who put me up in their house in Kigali before and after the crash, picked me up from the hospital, had their nurse friend Porsche in for a checkup on my face, collected my bike and medication and fed me like an absolute king.
Despite the crash it would appear that things were on my side, I crashed only a few kilometres from one of the best hospitals in east Africa right in front of someone who spoke english and would look after me all day and whilst in the care of two of the most hospitable people I have ever met. Richard, Alma and Lucy from the bottom of my heart, thank you.
The next step was deciding what to do. Neither giving up the trip or flying home were options but I had decided before the crash that I would take the ferry down lake Tanganyika to avoid the western Tanzanian roads which during the rainy season become difficult for cars let alone bicycles. I decided to stick to getting this weeks ferry but was in no position to cycle so a bus, a minibus, a flatbed truck, another country (Burundi) and amazingly a motorbike later (managed to pack my bike and all my bags on the back) I am now in the Tanzanian town of Kigoma awaiting this afternoons ferry. The bike is in a really sorry state with both gear changes bent, both wheels out of line, a brake lever missing and the front suspension wrecked. I also need to arrange to get my stitches out at the end of the week but the ride will go on....
Stay tuned.
Distance cycled to date - 8671km
Money raised for Malaria Consortium - £8,514.70
Two hard days cycling over rolling hills later I found myself back at my favourite spot from my last visit to Africa. Bujagali falls in Uganda is not a large waterfall but a series of violent rapids that make for some exhilarating rafting. Here I spent a week with my brother Jasper catching up and helping to refurbish local schools with Softpower Education, a fantastic project that mainly through tourists donating their time and money has transformed over 30 schools in the area. (www.softpowereducation.com).
After Jinja I headed to Kampala, entering Ugandas capital in the dark in the midst of a colossal thunderstorm which made things interesting. Here I met Moses from Malaria Consortium who took me to Mulago Hospital (Uganda's largest) to see clinical trials that MC were funding. The ward where the trails were being held was large but crammed with exhausted looking mothers and their children. Most had made long journeys to be there and the only reason they would be there is because their child was on the brink with very advanced malaria.
The idea of the trial is to give the children (all aged between 2 and 12) very large doses of intravenous fluids. The idea seems to be reducing death rates and yet as many as half of the children I saw will since have passed away. Whilst there though I did see a very happy looking little boy. Desire, 2 years old and from just east of Kampala had come in for his 28 day checkup. Less than a month ago little desire who now sat happily playing with his mothers keys had been in multi organ system failure and hours from death when he was quickly diagnosed and given over one and a half times the recommended dose of rehydrating saline solution as well as the usual treatment. Desire responded to treatment and bounced back quickly as many do not but as Charles, another MC employee was to tell me the next day the battle is to be won with insecticide treated mosquito nets to prevent infection in the first place.
I was taken into the heart of rural Mokono district (just west of Kampala) where some 150,000 nets have been distributed which is designed to cover 85% of the regions children under 5 and pregnant mothers (those most susceptible to infection). The area was so remote that I was told that many of the children had not seen a white man before, hence the riot my arrival sparked! The news was good, it seemed to me that the nets had been distributed to the right people and they had understood their purpose and how to use them effectively. This was fantastic to see as we have so far raised over 8500 pounds which will provide over 1,700 nets to the Africans that need them most.
After Kampala I headed for Rwanda via the picturesque lake Bunyoni in western Uganda. This crater lake scattered with tiny islands, one of which unwed pregnant women used to be left to die on has to be one of the more stunning places I've ever been. The road through northern Rwanda makes for some of the most incredible cycling I've ever done, it reminded me strongly of the Italian riviera and I had an absolute blast. The next day however I nearly lost everything.
I was out and about in the capital Kigali on saturday morning buying some supplies and getting some routine bike maintenance done. I was descending a hill on my way back to the centre when a taxi pulled in front of me and pulled to the side blocking my path, one of the countless acts of bad driving I have experienced in the last few months. This time however was different. I never found out why but the driver rammed the brakes on so hard that I didn't even have time to apply mine. The car stopped instantly and I hit it at around 30 miles per hour. As a witness described my front wheel climbed the back of the saloon car and I was thrown with full force towards the back window. I instinctively put my hand out to break my fall, my hand went remarkably unscathed through the window, this did however leave me to decelerate the rest of my speed using my face.
I stood up immediately and found that large quantities of blood was pouring and in fact spraying from my face. I began a mental checklist of my body parts and found them all to be where I expected. I was approached by a kind expat called Lucy who gasped at the sight of me and told me to get in her car. I was adamant that we get the bike but her driver Leo was having none of it at first sight of me he was racing to get me to the emergency room, I hadn't realised at the time that the lower half of my face was hanging off.
We arrived at King Faisal Hospital less than 15 minutes after the crash and I was ushered into an examination room where I found a mirror. It was difficult to describe better than to say that I did not recognise the mess that was my face and my blood was everywhere. Within half an hour I was taken into surgery, it took over an hour and a half under general anaesthetic to remove a large chunk of glass that was wedged between my top teeth and skull and to apply 37 stitches to my face. 22 on my face and lips and 15 more in my mouth.
I was not exactly in fine shape but was very lucky not to break a bone or even loose any teeth. I have realised that the end result could've been so much worse. I was also amazingly luck to have Lucy there at the time. She had her driver take me to the hospital, she waited with me before surgery, she took care of registration and lent me the money to pay my bill and she was there with all my belongings when I woke up. I also would not be in the shape I currently am without the help of Richard and Alma Johnson who put me up in their house in Kigali before and after the crash, picked me up from the hospital, had their nurse friend Porsche in for a checkup on my face, collected my bike and medication and fed me like an absolute king.
Despite the crash it would appear that things were on my side, I crashed only a few kilometres from one of the best hospitals in east Africa right in front of someone who spoke english and would look after me all day and whilst in the care of two of the most hospitable people I have ever met. Richard, Alma and Lucy from the bottom of my heart, thank you.
The next step was deciding what to do. Neither giving up the trip or flying home were options but I had decided before the crash that I would take the ferry down lake Tanganyika to avoid the western Tanzanian roads which during the rainy season become difficult for cars let alone bicycles. I decided to stick to getting this weeks ferry but was in no position to cycle so a bus, a minibus, a flatbed truck, another country (Burundi) and amazingly a motorbike later (managed to pack my bike and all my bags on the back) I am now in the Tanzanian town of Kigoma awaiting this afternoons ferry. The bike is in a really sorry state with both gear changes bent, both wheels out of line, a brake lever missing and the front suspension wrecked. I also need to arrange to get my stitches out at the end of the week but the ride will go on....
Stay tuned.
Distance cycled to date - 8671km
Money raised for Malaria Consortium - £8,514.70
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